Prusa Printers & Slicer
Overall maintenance check out https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/i3-printers-regular-maintenance_2072
Maintenance on the rods https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/maintenance-tips_23200/
WARNING: Extruder parts should be black due to sensors needing it.
You can spot damage if a print has a hard time coming off. You can also spot damage if you see your previous print on the surface.
Paper Glue Sticks
Note that paper glue sticks operate as a separating agent and is the reason why Prusa Carbon Fiber (https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pc-blend-carbon-fiber-black-800g-2/) is provided with a glue stick in everything since it sticks too strong.
We don’t recommend printing with PCCF on a smooth PEI sheet. This material adheres greatly to the PEI surface and may cause damage to it. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty. If you need to print on a smooth surface, spread a thin layer of paper glue stick on it.
Also, if you often print with PCCF on the satin sheet, we recommend using a glue stick to prevent surface wear-out.
TIP: Don't be afraid to use Paper Glue Sticks for anything! It never harms anything and as long as you put on a thin layer it just makes the print surface look smoother. Trade off is more work cleaning sheet.
- How to setup printer profiles https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955
- Good satin sheet https://www.prusa3d.com/product/double-sided-powder-coated-satin-spring-steel-sheet/
- The three types of sheets and differences https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/flexible-steel-sheets_2195
- Material table matrix chart for what works best with what sheets https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials
As you can see below, satin is more versatile with the tradeoff being more easier to scratch (have to use plastic scrappers).
My personal printer calibration for 0.4mm nozzle is around 1.8 on satin and around 1.82 on texture.
Leveling & Calibration
Every print a calibration test happens before it starts. The default setting is a 3 x 3 with 3 probes each. Personal note is that larger prints to be more than that so on the printer LCD screen, adjust bed leveling to do 7 x 7 with 5 probes each. You can also use OctoPi bed level visualizer to see what it looks like.
To test the results use this print https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/36706-bed-level-test/files
Source is https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/mesh-bed-leveling_112163, https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles-.../guide-nylock-mod-for-mk3-and-mk3s/
E3D Revo is where is at. Use it! However for posterity sake here's some old notes that some still apply to Revo.
Official instructions at https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle_2069
- PID Calibration (makes sure temp sensing is calibrated for new nozzle)
- First layer (make sure the .5 mm gab you eyeball is still acceptable)
Most don't really save much of any time but support cubic is one of the fastest with least filament and 3d honeycomb the slowest. Prusa themselves usually use grid which is one of the fastest but strongest is gyroid and is generally fast. Check out for detailed advantages of each.
Test out doing multi filament prints like PLA and PETG since they don't have the greatest annealing. Short of that, Prusa doesn't have good defaults. It's good when using water soluble filaments but for easy to remove supports of same filament (relatively) use the below settings...
- Contact Z Distance: 0.25mm
- Pattern Spacing: 3mm
- Interface Layers: 4
- XY seperation between an object and its support: 75%
Nozzle 0.25 Tuning
- Speed for print moves
- Perimeters: 20
- Small perimeters: 15
- External perimeters: 20
- Infill: 30
- Solid Infill: 20
- Top solid infill: 20
- Support material: 30
- Bridges: 20
- Gap fill: 20
- Speed for non-print moves
- Travel: 60
- Acceleration control
- 200 for everything!
- Auto speed
- Max print speed: 60
Personal note that more success was noticed with 100% infill for smaller prints.